A Journey Through Time: The Enchanting Ruins of Dougga

As a former professor of European history, my travels often lead me to places where the past whispers through ancient stones and forgotten streets. This time, my journey took me to the heart of Tunisia, to the remarkable archaeological site of Dougga. Known as the best-preserved Roman town in North Africa, Dougga is a treasure trove for history enthusiasts like myself.

Our adventure began in La Marsa, a charming suburb of Tunis, where my wife and I were staying. We were picked up by Amir, our amiable driver, whose knowledge of the local area and fluent English made the two-hour drive to Dougga both informative and enjoyable. As we left the bustling city behind, the landscape transformed into rolling hills and olive groves, a serene prelude to the historical wonders that awaited us.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by Monae, our guide, whose expertise in archaeology and tourism was immediately evident. Her passion for the site was infectious, and her detailed explanations brought the ruins to life. Walking through the ancient streets, I was reminded of Herculaneum in Italy, another city frozen in time. Monae’s insights into the Roman road systems, the ingenious irrigation techniques, and the daily lives of Dougga’s inhabitants painted a vivid picture of a once-thriving community.

The Living History of Dougga

Dougga’s ruins are a testament to the architectural prowess of the Romans. The temples, baths, and theatre stand proudly against the backdrop of the Tunisian countryside, their grandeur undiminished by the passage of centuries. Monae guided us through these monumental structures, her narrative weaving together the threads of history and human experience.

One of the highlights was the Mausoleum of Ateban, a striking example of Numidian architecture. Its bilingual inscription, now housed in the British Museum, played a crucial role in deciphering the ancient Punic language. As we stood before this towering monument, I couldn’t help but reflect on the interconnectedness of cultures and the enduring legacy of the past.

Monae’s tour also revealed the more intimate aspects of Roman life. We explored the remains of a luxurious villa, complete with a private latrine, and admired the intricate mosaics that once adorned its floors. The communal baths and public toilets offered a glimpse into the social dynamics of the time, while the terracotta pipes demonstrated the Romans’ advanced engineering skills.

A Taste of Tradition in Testour

After a morning immersed in history, Amir took us to a local café for a taste of traditional Tunisian cuisine. The mlawi flatbread, freshly made over a wood fire and served with a variety of fillings, was a culinary delight. It was a simple yet satisfying meal, a reminder of the rich cultural tapestry that defines this region.

Our final stop was the town of Testour, where we marveled at the unique clock on the minaret of the Great Mosque. Its hands move counterclockwise, a curious anomaly that has intrigued visitors for centuries. As we sipped mint tea and watched the world go by, we were treated to an unexpected spectacle: a groom’s party leaving the mosque, accompanied by music and well-wishers. It was a moment of pure serendipity, a reminder of the vibrant traditions that continue to thrive in this ancient land.

As we made our way back to La Marsa, I reflected on the day’s experiences. The journey to Dougga had been more than just a visit to an archaeological site; it was a journey through time, a chance to connect with the past and appreciate the enduring beauty of history. For those who share my passion for ancient ruins and cultural heritage, this tour is an experience not to be missed.