A Journey Through Time and Taste

The morning sun cast a golden hue over San Sebastián as my wife and I embarked on a journey that promised to be as rich and complex as the wines we were about to savor. Our guide, Matteo, a man whose knowledge of the Rioja region seemed as deep as the cellars we would soon explore, greeted us with a warm smile. The drive to Rioja Alavesa was a visual feast, with rolling hills and verdant vineyards stretching as far as the eye could see. It was a prelude to the sensory indulgence that awaited us.

Our first stop was Tritium Bodega, a winery that marries tradition with innovation. As we descended into the 14th-century caves, the air was cool and filled with the earthy aroma of aging wine. Our wine educator, a passionate storyteller, guided us through the history and process of their unique Riojas. Each sip was a revelation, a testament to the craftsmanship and creativity that defines this family-run establishment. The wines here defy convention, offering a fresh perspective on what Rioja can be.

The Heart of Rioja

Leaving Tritium, we journeyed to Luis Canas, a family winery that embodies the heart and soul of Rioja. The landscape here was breathtaking, with rows of vines standing proudly against the backdrop of the Sierra Cantabria mountains. Our tasting experience was intimate and thoughtful, with classic reservas and gran reservas that spoke of tradition and time-honored techniques. The warmth of the family was palpable, their pride in their craft evident in every glass.

As we wandered through the vineyards, I couldn’t help but reflect on the parallels between the wines of Rioja and the culinary landscapes of France and Italy that I have explored in my career. Each region, with its unique terroir and traditions, offers a distinct narrative, a story told through the language of wine. Here in Rioja, the narrative is one of passion, innovation, and a deep respect for the land.

A Medieval Interlude

Our final destination was the enchanting village of LaGuardia, a place where time seems to stand still. Nestled atop a hill, surrounded by ancient walls, it offers a natural balcony overlooking the wine region. Here, we indulged in pinxtos, the Basque Country’s answer to tapas, each bite a delightful fusion of flavors that mirrored the complexity of the wines we had tasted.

As we made our way back to San Sebastián, the sun setting over the horizon, I felt a profound sense of gratitude. The day had been a celebration of the senses, a journey through time and taste that had exceeded all expectations. For those seeking an authentic and unforgettable experience in the heart of Rioja, I cannot recommend this tour enough. Matteo, with his passion and expertise, is indeed the perfect guide for such an adventure.