The Call of the Mountains

As I stepped off the ferry in Porto Novo, the salty breeze of the Atlantic Ocean greeted me, carrying with it the promise of adventure. The island of Santo Antão, with its rugged mountains and lush valleys, had long been on my list of places to explore. Known for its breathtaking landscapes and vibrant culture, this island promised an experience that would resonate with my passion for nature and conservation.

Our journey began with a drive along the Old Mountain Road, a serpentine path that offered panoramic views of the island’s dramatic terrain. The road itself seemed to be a testament to the resilience of the people who call this island home, winding through steep cliffs and verdant valleys. As we ascended, the air grew cooler and the vegetation denser, a welcome change from the bustling city life I had left behind.

Our guide, a local with an infectious enthusiasm for his homeland, shared stories of the island’s history and culture. His tales of traditional farming practices and the island’s unique biodiversity were a reminder of the delicate balance between human life and nature. It was a theme that resonated deeply with me, echoing the work I’ve done in the Amazon.

Into the Heart of Cova Crater

Reaching the Cova Crater was like stepping into another world. The crater, a remnant of an ancient volcano, was a lush oasis surrounded by towering peaks. From the rim, the view was nothing short of spectacular. Below, the valley spread out like a patchwork quilt of green, dotted with small villages and terraced fields.

As we descended into the crater, the path wound through fields of corn and sugarcane, the lifeblood of the local communities. The air was filled with the scent of fresh vegetation, and the sounds of nature were a symphony of birdsong and rustling leaves. It was a reminder of the interconnectedness of all living things, a concept that is at the heart of my work as a biologist.

The people we met along the way were as much a part of the landscape as the mountains themselves. Farmers tending their fields, children playing in the sun, and elders sharing stories of the past. Their connection to the land was palpable, a testament to the enduring spirit of the Caboverdean people.

A Taste of Tradition

Our trek concluded in the village of Paul, where we were treated to a traditional lunch at a local restaurant. The flavors of Cabo Verde were a delightful blend of African and Portuguese influences, a culinary reflection of the island’s rich cultural tapestry.

After lunch, we visited a local distillery where the island’s famous grogue, a potent sugarcane spirit, is produced. Watching the distillation process was a fascinating glimpse into the island’s agricultural heritage, a reminder of the importance of sustainable practices in preserving these traditions for future generations.

As we made our way back to Porto Novo along the new coastal road, the setting sun cast a golden glow over the landscape. The journey had been a profound reminder of the beauty and resilience of nature, and the importance of preserving it for future generations. Santo Antão had captured my heart, and I left with a renewed sense of purpose in my work as a conservationist.

For those seeking an adventure that combines breathtaking landscapes with a deep cultural experience, I cannot recommend the Santo Antão Trek enough. It is a journey that will leave you with a profound appreciation for the natural world and the people who call it home.