May 26, 2023
IRAQ May 2023, 2300Km alone by car - Hello Friends, my friend Manuel and I managed to successfully complete a super tour of Iraq of 7 Days from 17 to 23 May 2023 completely by ourselves, 2300KM with rented car at the airport in Baghdad. The difficulties encountered were not few and I write this review because despite the various readings made to deal with the trip lack a lot of information for practical use that no one says, so I will try to give them to you.
Some premises, Iraq is not at war with anyone, ISIS terrorism has been driven out for years now there is a US-backed government rather appreciated. The delinquency is absent you can turn in total tranquility, The Iraqi people are beautiful, kind, altruistic and proud to know and chat with foreigners, children greeted us, other people asked us for a photo with them even the military, the whole territory is absolutely safe much more than our metropolises, the tourist is well liked but nevertheless Iraq is completely militarized by US government provisions and the military are the sore note of the trip.
We do not speak Arabic, only English and they few palano English, we downloaded the offline languages Arabic-Italian-English of the Google translate app that saved us in difficult situations.
Visa: Then you will get it at the airport in Baghdad before passport control there is a desk with staff to which you will have to apply for the official visa at a cost of US80 / person, without this you will not go anywhere. The visa issued at the airport in Baghdad is the official one and will allow you to safely enter Kurdistan.
Car Chapter, I had done a great search, all the rentals are in the capital, we thought to rely on Herz for a matter of guarantees but does not have an office at the airport only in Baghdad city and its schedules are inadequate, also did not allow us to go to Kurdistan. While WedCar rental is the only one with office at the airport extremely available and responsive to emails gave us all the necessary information and allowed us with regular visa to shoot in Kurdistan. We left the low car category alone as we knew that the roads are disrupted and we would have to do a lot of dirt in the desert to reach the various historical sites so for 100US/day we got a car category KIA Sportage-Kia Tucson (new versions) so I highly advise against renting small cars for your safety. With an additional $20 we got a router-soap with unlimited internet traffic for the duration of the trip, this thing proved extremely useful for everything as even in the various walking tours we stuck it in our pockets and everywhere we could take advantage of network support. The rental has prepared us an essential document that was requested from 80% of checkpoints so make sure you get it.
Road navigation chapter, Google maps works well with also very useful traffic indications, but many roads are not present, this is because Iraq is under complete reconstruction. We also used MapsME with excellent offline openstreetmaps and they helped us, so we never got lost but the detours encountered were quite a lot.
Roads a disaster. You will find brand new stretches alternating with roads destroyed by trucks and dirt detours all the time because of the endless work in progress, potholes even deep in old roads, but beware of unmarked patches that break the axles if you run too much, are always present before the Check and in urban areas so be careful! In Iraq there is only one rule, precedence on the right. Traffic lights? no one looks at them, lanes? useless, belts? unused, one-way? valid only if full of cars, so watch out, but if you decide to come here means that like us you already have experience, just know how to turn for peak hours in Rome.
Cash carry! ATMs are only present in modern shopping facilities
and withdrawing does not pay for commission costs, while the exchange rate, especially dollar is more favorable than the official one! At our trip 1Euro=1,08USD for them it makes no difference they both changed to 1400Dinar or even 1450! We managed to pay only 2 hotels with the POS everything else, including car, only CASH!
Hotels: Iraq is not yet prepared for tourism, in fact the hotels are very few often absent, sometimes you will have to look for them on sight as they are not registered on booking or Hotels, more expensive in Baghdad (110US for a decent one) less around 45-70 USD but sometimes a little decadent, always buffet breakfasts from good to excellent.
Ancient historical sites, a disaster. Apart from Babylon and the UR, they are all in a state of total neglect, a huge pity about the enormous cultural heritage of Mesopotamia. Around the 60s, universities in Pensilvenia and others did a bit of work and relief and stripped them of 90%, bringing objects, bas-reliefs, statues to museums around the world and more, so visiting the sites as fascinating as they are will allow you to see very little. All historical sites are manned militarily and on the most important ones you pay the national ticket issued by the ministry of culture archaeology equal to Dinar 25000 / cad (not a little), sites we visited: Ar-Ukhaidir, Babylon, URUK, UR, Nippur, Sippar(closed), Eridu, Nimrod, Ashur, Baghdad Museum, Hatra (rejected), Mattai Sea, as well as a whole host of mosques and old town centers. I very much hope now that Iraq is under reconstruction that appropriate excavation and security works will be financed and authorised.
Taxi Attention! Useful in Baghdad to save you time in traffic (but turning by car is still feasible) those who turn yellow are all freelance the routes range from 4 to 10kdin depending on the distance (this in Baghdad) but watch out they can not enter the airport, you need an official one and obviously it costs a lot more in fact ours has unhooked us at the check control from which the official ones depart for the last stretch of 8km and it costs you USD-20-30 so better trust your hotel and get them called.
But here we are in the sore chapter, the military and the endless points I control us, you will be stopped by 80% of them, they want to know who you are, where you go, what you came to do and where you got the car. They do not communicate with each other so the stress of repeating the same things to everyone even at a distance of 1 KM from each other will be devastating. Few military speak English, some a few words, so the translator comes in handy, "We are Italians, tourists, we have a Baghdad visa and we go to that place" the situation becomes complicated if the site is not open and you want to go anyway .. almost everyone then will want to register your document so the waits will be long. Controls are tighter near Kurdistan and at the entrance to every village or historic site. Some do not read the Western script including numbers, they had objections about the date of my visa when there was a clear numerical stamp with the deadline .. they could not understand it .. but with patience we always came out. In Hatra they also asked us for the visiting card of the site that was only available in Mussol and they did not want us to pass, but in other places insisting we managed to get telephone authorization and we paid the guardian still others have a pseudo ticket office. In Samarra insistent military did not allow us passage to visit the mosque with the spiral minaret, for I still do not know what reason, proposing the visit only if we left our passport at check, we refused and went back.
In Kurdistan everything is different, new roads less dirt, perfect cities and roads, beautiful shopping areas, less controls, only those at the border, almost all women without headscarves, cosmetic surgery depopulated cheekbones noses breast lips .. it seemed to be in the West.
Finally other useful things general, alcohol are banned from consumption everywhere, are available in Baghdad / Erbil / Mossoul in half-hidden retailers, in Nassiria impossible to find, nightlife Erbil the TOP even Baghdad not bad, gasoline almost free! 450 dinars! (0,31 €.lt) ..Distributors outside the street are withheld a 10% for the Service.. in Kurdistan 600Dinar /lt. I really enjoyed seeing males dressed very well and stylishly on average, much better than ragtag Italians, all with neat and extravagant hair and beards .. it's full of new cars! Many rather luxurious lots of huge SUVs then Mustang Camaro .. and other cars from USA .. but where do they get the money? .. I didn't get the impression that they are very rich indeed .. and the last tip, often stop at their bars to drink a tea or a Turkish coffee .. chat with them will be beautiful!
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